Irish Solstices

It seems crazy to think that it has been more than 6 months since I was last in Ireland. Since I never actually got my December post up, I figured this was a good opportunity to add some bits from those 5 days in Dublin with the fantastic hostess, Katie!

Strong first impressions remain:

  • Ireland in December is cold. Really cold. Although Dublin and London are fairly close, Dublin is MUCH more damp. Add a bit of winter wind and wowza. Come June, the frigid air was gone, but I was quite comfortable in jeans and a fleece. I survived December with a fleece and my dress jacket (which was more than enough in London), but I could have benefited from a wool sweater or two. The tool of survival: hot water bottles. (As they say in Ireland, ‘Tanks a million,’ Katie!!)
Freezing on the pier at Dun Laoghaire

Freezing on the pier at Dun Laoghaire

  • Since Ireland uses the euro, I thought things would be a smidge less expensive than London. When it comes to food, this is certainly NOT the case.  I don’t profess to have a great understanding of economics, but presumably this is because of importing costs. Porridge was a staple for breakfast (and lunch a few times, too) which made it possible to indulge in a full Irish breakfast.
  • Confession: I remember when I first moved here I kept getting geographically related politics (ie: Great Britain, United Kingdom, England, Ireland / Northern Ireland, Scottish Independence) very mixed up. Traveling and speaking with locals definitely provides new perspective. If you ever have a chance to travel to Dublin, I highly recommend making the Kilmainham Gaol one of your first stops in the city.
  • Biking (or “cycling” as they say) is very common in Dublin. The CocaCola Dublinbikes rental share works quite nice—5 euro for 3 days. The complication in the story, however, comes when you remember Irish Winter Solstice sunlight hours: fluorescent safety gear is near mandatory if you care to ride for more than your lunch hours. During rush hour, this form of transit is elevated to the “extreme” level during rush hour when you start weaving between moving vehicles. (Deep breaths, everyone, deep breaths!) When the traffic is slower, however, it makes for quick transit and a great way to see the lil city.
  • The coast is where it’s at. In December, this meant taking a short train from Dublin to Dun Laoghaire, and in June we visited the west coast. (Keep reading!)
  • Dublin is home to both Jameson & Guinness which seems fitting considering the active pub culture in Ireland. Having toured both the distillery (December) and the brewery factory (June), I can recommend both. Flying Ryanair limits one’s ability of bringing many souvenirs back, but my brother Franz received a teeny bottle of Writer’s Tears, an Irish Whiskey that I first spotted on Katie’s shelf.

For the June visit, I was joined by my friend Zoe, and together we stretched our wings a bit further. We took pit stops in Enis & Gallway…

…But the highlight of our three day jaunt across the island was our coastal walk from the Cliffs of Moher up to Doolin.

From what we could tell, most tourists just make it to the visitor’s center, marvel at the cliffs, and call it a day. On an overcast day, as are a number of days in Ireland, I can understand the desire to make this a short visit. We, however, scored a gloriously clear day and feasted our eyes not only on the “main attraction” (the Cliffs) but also the Aran Islands which are just off the coast. As I expressed previously and will continue to re-state, there is something very awe-inspiring about experiencing natural wonders.

Here’s to a summer of making even more of these memories!

Andrea

Featured Image: 4pm December sunset at Dun Laoghaire

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